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Ice Breaker
step: 1
Pattern Description
Matt "HamBone" Hamilton hatched the Ice Breaker a few years back. It has since become one of the more popular tailwater patterns in Colorado and it's effectiveness can't be argued with. This is kind of an odd little pattern, originally tied on a TMC 200R, with the tungsten bead placed a little further back than normal in the thorax area of the fly. The wood duck fiber tail along with a soft hackle collar add some movement while a little Ice Dubbing contributes a bit of flash. As many of you know, I am not a fan of the TMC 200R hook and thus, I don't have them in my normal stock of hooks. Usually, I strive to match the originators pattern, unless, that is, I think I can improve it. I'll just say that I used a TMC 2312 on the tutorial fly and leave it at that. I have had several requests to add this pattern to the site and actually shot a tutorial for the ICe Breaker over a year ago, but just wasn't happy with the quality of the photos. These came out a little better, but still not perfect and rather than make you all wait again, I figured I'd let you work through a couple of fuzzy images with my apologies. Fire Away!
Materials Needed: All materials used here available for mail order. Please use the contact form for pricing and details.

Hook: TMC 2312 OR TMC 200R #14-20............... Bead: Black Tungsten, sized to hook................... Thread: Rusty Dun 8/0 and Red 8/0................... Tail: Barred Wood Duck Flank ....................... Rib: Chartreuse Lagartun Wire, small................ Abdomen: Tan D-Rib, small...................... Thorax: Olive Brown Ice Dubbing.................. Hackle: Blue Dun Hen Neck..............
step: 2  
Put the bead on the hook and start the rusty dun tying thread behind the bead at about the 2/3 point on the hook. Wrap a thread base back to the bend of the hook.
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step: 3  
Peel about a dozen fibers from a Wood Duck flank feather and even their tips. Measure this clump against the shank so it is equal to about half a shnk length...maybe just a bit shorter.
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step: 4  
Tie the wood duck in at the bend of the hook with a single turn of thread.
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step: 5  
Cut a six inch length of wire from the spool and tie it in at the bend of the hook by laying the wire in at the bend of the hook as shown here. Put the wire along the side of the hook and make a turn of thread over it at the bend.
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step: 6  
Wrap forward over the stub end of the wire. If you were paying attention, you noticed that I let the stub end extend to about the 66% point on the shank when I tied it in. Wrap the thread up to the 66% point over the wood duck and wire and clip the wood duck. Clip the wire too if you have to and try to pay closer attention next time;-)
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step: 7  
Wrap the thread back to the bend.
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step: 8  
Alright, now cut a piece of D-Rib at a long angle as shown here. Yes, I know this isn't the longest angle in the world, but you try doing this around a camera and three lamps!
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step: 9  
Tie the tip of the angled cut onto the hook at the bend. We are trying to eliminate any bulk here by tying in just the tip, so don't go crazy with the thread wraps. Just catch the tip with a couple tight turns of thread to anchor it down.
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step: 10  
Wrap the thread forward to the end of the thread base, forming a slight taper as you go.
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step: 11  
Wrap the D-Rib forward with the rounded side facing up. Wrap the D-rib up to the end of the thread base and tie it off tightly.
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step: 12  
Use a black Sharpie marker to color the top side of the D-Rib body. Make a thick stripe down the top of the body.
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step: 13  
Wrap the chartreuse wire rib forward over the D-Rib, putting each turn in the segment between the turns of D-rib. Tie the wire off at the front of the body and clip the excess wire and D-Rib.
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step: 14  
Whip finish the rusty dun thread and clip.
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step: 15  
Shove the bead back up against the front of the abdomen as tightly as you can.
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step: 16  
Start the red thread in front of the bead and wrap right up to the front edge.
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step: 17  
Dub a little bit of Ice dubbing onto the thread and wrap it onto the hook right at the front edge of the bead. You can even overlap the dubbing up ONTO the bead a bit. Be sure to leave yourself some room for the soft hackle collar and thread head.
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step: 18  
Prep and tie in a blue dun hackle feather by its butt end at the front edge of the dubbing. Bring the thread to the back edge of the hook eye.
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step: 19  
Wrap the hackle feather forward two or three turns and tie it off just behind the eye.
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step: 20  
Push the hacle fibers back and hold them along the fly while you wrap a short thread collar over their front edge to sweep them back.
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step: 21  
Wrap a tapered, cone shaped head at the front of the hook to hold the hackle fibers back. Whip finish and clip the red thread. Hell, add a shot of head cement just so it looks pretty.
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step: 22  
Finito!
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