| step: 3 |
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| Poke the point of the hook through the foam about an inch from the end. The point of the hook should be centered on the foam strip.
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| step: 4 |
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| Place the hook in the vise with the foam on the bend of the hook. |
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| step: 5 |
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| Start the thread two eye lengths back from the eye of the hook and wrap back to the bend forming a smooth thread base. Return the thread to two eye lengths back from the eye. |
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| step: 6 |
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| Tie the strip of binder foam to the hook, starting at the thread start point, (two eye lengths back from the hook eye) all the way back to the bend of the hook. Leave the thread hanging at the bend in the followings steps. Clip the excess binder foam off at this point. |
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| step: 7 |
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| Pull the strip of body foam forward so it is under the hook and flush up against the back end of the binder strip at the bend.
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| step: 8 |
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| Using the tips of your scissors, poke a hole from the top through the foam directly under the hook eye. |
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| step: 9 |
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| Poke your scissor tips through the same hole from the bottom to ensure that the hole doesn't close up. |
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| step: 10 |
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| Push the hook eye through the hole you just made as in the photos above. |
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| step: 11 |
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| The thread should be draped over the foam at the bend of the hook at this point |
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| step: 12 |
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Apply a drop of Zap-A-Gap to the binder strip and the inside (top) of the body strip. The glue should also be smeared up the body strip, past the bend of the hook, for at least half a shank length.
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| step: 13 |
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| Fold the front half of the foam that is (was) pointing out over the hook eye back over the top of the hook shank. Pinch the two halves together for a few seconds while the glue dries. Be sure the foam is glued together all the way past the bend of the hook, as pictured above. |
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| step: 14 |
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Wrap the thread over the foam at the bend forming the end of the first segment. These wraps should be directly above the point on the barb of the hook.
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| step: 15 |
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| Bring the thread forward across the top of the body and form the front of the first segment with another two or three turns of thread. |
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| step: 16 |
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| Bring the thread forward across the top of the body and form the front of the first segment with another two or three turns of thread. |
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| step: 17 |
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Continue forward making two more segments equal in length to the first.
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| step: 18 |
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| The thread only crosses the body on the top. The bottom of the fly should only show the segments with no thread crossing between them.
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| step: 19 |
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| Leave the thread hanging in the last segment for the time being. |
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| step: 20 |
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| Same step, I have just replaced the yellow body with the standard tan. Notice the angle of the foam as it extends from the bend of the hook. It should be slightly elevated. This is caused by the bend of the hook forcing the foam upward |
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| step: 21 |
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| This is the important part. Use a single edge razor blade. Place the blade flat along the top of the body with the sharp edge facing the bend. Slide the blade back, keeping it parallel to the shank of the hook, until it starts to cut into the foam that extends off the back of the hook. |
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| step: 22 |
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| Close up view of the blade cutting through the foam.
Notice that the blade is flat against the body of the fly and the cut is straight across the back. There is no angle to the cut, simply straight along the top of the body.
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| step: 23 |
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| Finished cut. Note how the pieces fit back together. As the foam is angled up to start with and the cut is made straight across the top of the fly, the illusion of an angled cut is made.
BUT THERE IS NO ANGLE TO THE CUT!!!
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| step: 24 |
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| Top view of extended portion of body.
Notice that the extended portion is wider than the main, segmented part of the body.
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| step: 25 |
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| Trim the sides of the extended portion so they are only as wide as the main portion of the body. |
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| step: 26 |
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| Use the same double edge razor blade (the one used in the photos has been broken in half lengthwise in the interest of safety) to cut both sides of the head so that they, too, are no wider than the main portion of the body. |
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| step: 27 |
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| Place a single strand of round rubber along the side of the head and bind it into the joint between the head and first body segment with two turns of thread. When you tighten the thread the rubber leg material should stick out of the side of the fly at an angle. |
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| step: 28 |
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| Cross the thread back across the top of the body to the second segment back, come up around the body in the joint and capture the other end of the rubber leg. |
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| step: 29 |
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| Place another strand of rubber leg along the far side of the hook and capture it with the thread in the same joint. |
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| step: 30 |
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| Cross the thread back to the front of the first segment and capture the front end of the second rubber leg in this joint. |
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| step: 31 |
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| Completed rubber legs, top view. |
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| step: 32 |
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| Pull the back legs to the rear and trim them even with the end of the foam body. |
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| step: 33 |
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| Trim the front legs so they are half the length of the back legs. |
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| step: 34 |
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| Detail of legs trimmed to length. |
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| step: 35 |
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| Trim Web Wing material so it is as wide as the gap of the hook and equal in length to the distance from the back of the head to just past the end of the extended body. Use your scissors to round the end of the wing. |
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| step: 36 |
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| Place the wing on top of the body and bind it down at the rear edge of the head with two or three turns of thread. |
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| step: 37 |
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| Detail of wing tied in. |
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| step: 38 |
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| Cut, clean and stack a LARGE clump of deer hair. Measure the hair from the back edge of the head to the bend of the hook |
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| step: 39 |
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| Cut the butt ends of the hair off square at the point at which it is even with the rear edge of the head. |
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| step: 40 |
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| Place two soft turns of thread over the butt ends of the hair. Put the tip of your index finger against the far side of the hook and pull straight down on the thread. Use your index finger to keep the hair on top of the hook and prevent it from twisting to the far side when you tighten the thread.
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| step: 41 |
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| Continue tightening the thread until the hair is completely flared. The butt ends should form a semi-sphere on top of the tie down point. |
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| step: 42 |
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| Whip finish between the wing and the butt ends of the deer hair. Try to keep all the wraps from the whip finish on top of one another in between the butts and main part of the wing, as detailed above. |
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| step: 43 |
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| Top view of completed hair wing.
Notice the FLARE of the wing (nearly 180 degrees) and the semi-circle formed by the butt ends.
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| step: 44 |
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Use a black Sharpie marker to make the eyes. The eyes are vertical, long ovals, not dots. Dots suck.
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| step: 45 |
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| Bottom view of completed fly. |
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| step: 46 |
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| Detail of hook protruding from foam.
Note placement of first segment in relation to the hook. The hook should exit the foam immediately behind the first segment. This allows the hook to force the extended portion of the foam body upward.
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| step: 47 |
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| SIDE VIEW. |
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| step: 48 |
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| TOP VIEW |
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| step: 49 |
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| BOTTOM VIEW. |
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| step: 50 |
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| FRONT VIEW. |
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