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Triple Wing Spinner
step: 1
Pattern Description
Ok, ok...I know it's been way too long since I have added a new fly to the site, but in my defense, I've had a busy few months...my lovely fiancé and I got married this summer, bought a new house, sold the old one and spent all the time we could stand packing and moving, so ultimately it's a good thing, but even better that it's now done! Enough excuses, let's get to some flies! The Triple Wing Spinner is an awesome spent mayfly imitation that solves a several inherent problems in the typical spinner pattern. With it's wide wing profile, it better matches the natural and the wing shape also adds surface area to help float the fly. It's important to remember to keep each bunch of poly yarn sparse as you tie this fly so as not to make the wings too thick...sunlight should shine through them as with the naturals. I should also mention that regular old poly yarn is what you want to use here...the crinkled texture helps hold each bunch together and makes the tying process MUCH easier. Those are the hints I have for you, now follow along and tie up a Triple Wing...this one is a Rusty Spinner but these can be tied in all sorts of colors to match whatever mayfly you like.
Materials Needed: All materials used here available for mail order. Please use the contact form for pricing and details.

Hook: TMC 101 #14-24>>>>> Thread: 8/0 UNI, to match Dubbing, in this case, Camel>>>>> Tail: White Tailing Fibers>>>>> Body: Superfine Dubbing, Rusty Brown or to match natural>>>>> Wing: Dun Polypropylene Yarn
step: 2  
Start the thread behind the eye and wrap a smooth thread base back to the bend. Clip off four white tailing fibers and measure them to just a bit longer than the hook shank. Tie the four fibers in at the bend with three flat turns of thread.
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step: 3  
Press your thumb nail up against the base of the tails to prop them up a bit as well as separate them.
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step: 4  
Use your fingers to separate the tails two to a side. Just pull them into position with your fingers...they're synthetic and will bend to shape easily.
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step: 5  
Bring a wrap of thread around the bottom of the shank behind the tails and up between them...
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step: 6  
Draw this wrap sharply forward to pull the thread against the near side tails and flare them out to the near side.
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step: 7  
Bring this wrap down around the hook tightly well in front of the tails.
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step: 8  
Now bring the thread over the top of the near tails and under the far side tails. I am (expertly, I might add) holding the thread with a tiny bit of slack in it here to illustrate the path of the thread.
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step: 9  
Draw this wrap tight and finish with a tight wrap around the shank. This figure eight will separate the tails widely and create surface area and flotation on the finished fly.
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step: 10  
Wrap forward over the butt ends of the tailing fibers to just short of the hook eye, maintaining a smooth thread base, and trim the butts flush.
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step: 11  
Dub a long, thin, tight strand of dubbing onto the thread. Use the bare thread between the dubbing and the hook shank (look closely and see the spiraled thread wraps) to travel back to the bend of the hook, ultimately ending up with the first turn of dubbing coming around the hook behind and at the base of the tails.
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step: 12  
Make one turn of dubbing around the shank at the base of the tails and then bring the dubbin up between the tails on the near side of the shank. Wiggle the dubbed thread a bit to position the tails so they are evenly separated.
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step: 13  
Make a thin layer of dubbing all the way up to the hook eye.
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step: 14  
Then make a second layer traveling back over the front half of the hook to the midpoint on the shank.
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step: 15  
Peel off a VERY thin strand of poly yarn from the cord. For an eighteen, I'd say you want a TENTH of a strand..
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step: 16  
Roll the strand of poly yarn in your fingers so it bundles up a bit as shown here...this just makes the winging process easier...
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step: 17  
Lay the yarn across the hook at an angle and make a single tight wrap of the dubbed thread over it at its center.
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step: 18  
Come under the hook and then over the top of the wing from front to back, Xing the wing in place. Make these wraps very tight so the wings are perpendicular to the hook shank.
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step: 19  
Make two butting wraps of dubbing around the shank in front of the wing.
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step: 20  
And repeat the winging process with another, like-sized, bunch of poly yarn...
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step: 21  
Make a single turn of dubbing around the shank between the two wings and come up in front of the second wing...
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step: 22  
Make another turn or two of dubbing on front of the second wing...
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step: 23  
...and tie in the third wing clump as you did with the first two. Continue dubbing right up to the hook eye once the wings are in place, finishing the thin body shape as you go.
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step: 24  
Whip finish and clip the thread at the hook eye.
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step: 25  
Lift all the strands of the wings up above the hook tightly and trim them to about three hook gaps. Trim a little on the long side as, when you pull the wings up, you stretch them a bit and they will recoil and be shorter once cut.
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step: 26  
Flatten the wings down so they lie flat along the body of the fly. You ought to have them thin and spread out like they are here. You can see why you wanted so little yarn now, can't ya?
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step: 27  
Use your sharpest scissors to trim the ends of the wings to a tapered, mayfly wing shape like these. Don't go crazy, but try to taper and round them a bit. Truth be told, the fish will probably eat them with the square cut wings, but I'll never know because I have to shape them obsessively.
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step: 28  
Finished fly, Bottom view. Nice wide wing profile for realism and flotation.
Triple Wing Spinner
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