Welcome Guest to Charlie's FlyBox!
Randy's Baetis
step: 1
Pattern Description
The Randy's Baetis is a pattern from Colorado's own Randy Smith. Randy used to guide up in Cheesman Canyon, back in the day, and has since moved up to the Silverthorne area. Randy is one of the best and most prolific guides I've ever met and his patterns have always had a simple elegance to them that I've come to grow fond of. The Baetis pattern here is a bit of a variation of Randy's original because, as you all know by now; I just can't leave well enough alone. Randy's original varies from this pattern in that both the tail and legs are made out of mallard flank dyed wood duck gold. I tied up a few this way, and while they look great, the light colored tail and legs just didn't seem to fit. I have subbed in Hungarian Partridge for both the tails and the legs, as their grey/brown color and distinct mottling seem to go along with the color scheme of the fly a bit better. The color of the original pattern is sort of an off-khaki color. I used olive, grey and brown beaver dubbing to mix a close approximation for the tutorial fly, but I'm sure you could tie this fly in several other shades and have it produce as well. I'm thinking dark brown, all grey and even all black would be good bets. Play with them and see what you can add too. Randy uses Tyvek sheeting (packing envelope) for the wingcase, which is an ingenious use for this material. Quick, cheap and easy...who doesn't like that? When I look at this pattern I see a sort of RS-II/Pheasant Tail combination fly. If there was ever two flies that would spawn great offspring, these are they!
Materials Needed: All materials used here available for mail order. Please use the contact form for pricing and details.

Hook: TMC 101 #16-22 Thread: 10/0 or 8/0 Brown Tail: Hungarian Partridge Body Feather Fibers Rib: Extra-Fine Copper Wire Abdomen: Beaver dubbing, Olive-brown, dark brown or grey Legs: Hungarian Partridge Wingcase: Tyvek sheet, colored black with Sharpie Marker Head/Thorax: Same dubbing as abdomen
step: 2  
Attach the thread about two eye lengths back from the hook eye and wrap a thread base back to the bend of the hook.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 3  
Align the tips of a small clump of Hungarian Partridge body feathers as shown in preparation for the tail.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 4  
Tie in a few fibers from the partridge feather for the tail at the bend of the hook with the tips extending back about a half a shank length. Wrap forward over the butt ends to just past the mid-point on the shank and trim the excess feather butts at this point.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 5  
Tie in a six-inch length of extra-fine copper wire at the sixty-percent point on the shank.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 6  
Wrap the thread back over the wire to the bend of the hook. Keep the wire along the near side of the hook as you wrap.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 7  
Apply a thin strand of dubbing to the thread and start wrapping it at the bend of the hook just in front of the tail. Wok the dubbing forward to about two eye lengths back from the hook eye, forming a slightly tapered, yet still thin, abdomen.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 8  
Spiral wrap the copper wire forward through the body forming the rib. Tie the wire off and clip it at the front of the abdomen.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 9  
Prepare a Hungarian Partridge body feather as shown by stripping the fluff from the base of the feather and trimming the center quill to form the V-shaped tip you see here.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 10  
Place the tips of the V-shaped feather on either side of the hook shank. You want the tips to extend to the middle of the abdomen. Hold this feather in place slightly toward the near side of the hook in anticipation of the thread torque twisting it up to center when you tie it in with the next step.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 11  
Pinch the tips of the feather against the shank and catch the butt ends with a pinch wrap. Make a few more tight turns over the butt ends to secure the feather in place. The tips should splay out slightly as you apply thread pressure.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 12  
Wrap a thread base forward to the hook eye and back again to the front edge of the abdomen. Notice the splay of the legs and the taper of the abdomen in this photo. If yours doesn't look like this, now would be a good time to fix it.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 13  
Cut a strip of Tyvek from a packing envelope or the like and color it on both sides with a black Sharpie marker. One envelope is enough to tie about three million flies; how's that for value?
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 14  
Cut a tapered strip from the Tyvek sheet as shown. The wide end should be about as wide as the hook gap.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 15  
Place the Tyvex strip on top of the fly at the front of the abdomen. Position the strip at the point where the width is slightly wider than the body and tie it down with several tight turns of thread.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 16  
Here's a side view of the above step. Notice that the Tyvek strip buckles around the hook shank and is not twisted up on either side.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 17  
Trim the front end of the Tyvek strip off flush against the shank and build a smooth thread base over the stub.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 18  
Dub a small head from the back edge of the hook eye up the base of the wingcase and back again. The overall proportions of this fly are about seventy-five percent abdomen and twenty-five percent head. Whip finish the thread at the hook eye and clip it.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 19  
Cut the wingcase straight across at about the mid-point of the shank. The wingcase should be equal in length to about twenty-five percent of the hook shank and is tied in at the seventy-five percent point, so it makes sense that the cut-off point is at the mid-point on the hook.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 20  
Finished fly, top view.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 21  
Finished fly, bottom view.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 22  
Finished fly, top view.
Randy's Baetis Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge
step: 23  
Finished fly, side view.
Randy's Baetis
click to enlarge