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Rs-2
step: 1
Pattern Description
The RS-II is a simple effective fly developed by Rim Chung for Colorado's South Platte River. I have to admit that this is one of my favorite flies. If I had to answer the old question of which fly I would pick if I could only have one, this fly would probably get the nod. When I guided on the South Platte it seemed that at least one of my clients always had an RS-II on, and I would bet that half the fish my clients caught were victims of this fly. Confidence in a pattern can make all the difference and the RS-II is my number one 'Confidence Fly'. The pattern that we will tie here is not Rim's original, but a variation that I developed over the years, using alternative synthetic materials. Synthetics are more durable, easier to get and more consistent than their natural counterparts. There are a few tricks I've incorporated into our RS-II variation: The first is the tail splitting technique using the tag end of the thread. I first saw this method used by Scott Sanchez in the book, TYING FLIES WITH JACK DENNIS AND FRIENDS. It is so simple and obvious (once you see it) that it will leave you slapping your forehead and wondering why you didn't think of it first. The next trick I use when tying the RS-II is melting the antron wing clump. This fuses the fibers together on one end and allows you to use the same clump for up to a dozen flies. If you try to tie the RS-II without fusing the antron you'll find that you'll be lucky to get four flies tied before the strand of antron falls apart. This method makes for more efficient use of both your time and materials. The RS-II is a mayfly emerger pattern that can be fished from the stream bottom to the surface. I most often fish it on the bottom as a nymph with a dead drift, but it can be effective on the swing or greased in the surface film also. While the standard RS-II color is gray, this fly is a killer in black and olive.
Materials Needed: All materials used here available for mail order. Please use the contact form for pricing and details.

Hook: TMC 101 or 100 #16-24 Thread: 8/0 Gray Tails: Two white or dun Microfibetts Abdomen: Adams Gray Superfine dubbing, grey beaver or muskrat dubbing Wing: Bright White Antron Yarn Thorax: Adams Gray Superfine dubbing, grey beaver or muskrat dubbing
step: 2  
Attach the thread at the midpoint of the hook leaving a long tag end. Wrap back over the tag end with the working thread, taking care to keep the tag end along the top of the hook, all the way back to the bend of the hook.
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step: 3  
Select two Microfibbetts (tails) from the package and even the tips. Measure these against the hook shank so that they are a full hook length long.
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step: 4  
Place the tailing fibers along the top of the shank at the bend at an angle that points the butt ends at your opposite shoulder. That is, you should be holding the fibers in your materials hand on the opposite side of the hook so that the butt ends point at your thread hand side shoulder.
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step: 5  
Now, with your thread hand make two or three wraps of thread over the tailing fibers to bind them to the TOP of the hook.
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step: 6  
Grasp both ends of the tails and pull them to the top of the hook shank so they are directly on top of the hook bend. At this point, check to assure that the tails are no longer or shorter than the hook. If they are, pull on the opposing end to shorten or lengthen the fibers accordingly.
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step: 7  
Once you are satisfied with the length of the tails and are sure that they are mounted directly atop the hook, press your thumbnail against the base of the tails to flare them.
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step: 8  
Split the tail fibers so they are opposed as shown here, by pulling them to their respective sides with your fingertips.
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step: 9  
Pull the tag end of the thread that we left hanging off the bend up between the tailing fibers to divide them.
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step: 10  
Bind the tag end down with the working thread with two or three wraps and clip the excess tag end and the butt ends of the tailing fibers off. Return the thread to the midpoint of the hook.
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step: 11  
The fly should look like this now, with a thread base up to the seventy-five percent point on the hook.
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step: 12  
Apply a VERY thin layer of dubbing to the thread and wrap the bare thread that is between the dubbing and the hook shank around the hook traveling back toward the bend. we want the first turn of dubbing to go UNDER the tails as shown in the next step.
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step: 13  
Make the first turn of dubbing under the tails to elevate them slightly as shown.
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step: 14  
Continue dubbing a tapered abdomen from the base of the tails to the seventy-five percent point on the hook
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step: 15  
Wrap a thread base from the front edge of the body to the hook eye and back again in preparation for the wing to come in the next steps.
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step: 16  
Clip a section of antron from the card and burn one end to gather the fibers. Pinch the burnt end together to hold them and you'll end up with something like this.
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step: 17  
Take the prepared piece of antron yarn and tie it in using a pinch wrap at the front edge of the abdomen where your thread is hanging.
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step: 18  
Pull the butt ends of the yarn down to length so that they do not extend beyond the base of the hook eye.
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step: 19  
Wrap over the butt ends of the antron forming a smooth thread base for the thorax.
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step: 20  
Apply another thin layer of dubbing to the thread and begin wrapping it at the front of the thorax section, about an eye length behind the hook eye. Wrapping from front to back will help with building a smooth taper on the front of the fly.
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step: 21  
Continue wrapping the dubbing back to the base of the wing as shown here...
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step: 22  
Wrap the dubbing from the base of the wing back up to the rear edge of the hook eye, ending with bare thread directly behind the eye.
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step: 23  
Whip finish and clip the thread.
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step: 24  
Pull the antron forward over the top of the thorax as shown. Lay your scissors in right at the back of the hook eye and clip the antron here.
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step: 25  
The wing should now be a short stub like this. If you tied the wing in too far back, it will, now, also be too long.
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step: 26  
Finished fly, side view. Note the smooth taper of the body and it's overall shape. This particular fly is a little fatter than I typically like, so if yours is skinnier, good on you!
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step: 27  
Finished fly, quartering top view.
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step: 28  
Finished fly, bottom view. Notice the body shape when viewed from below, smooth and seamless from front to back...
Rs-2
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