charlie's flybox

Chubby Chernobyl


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step: 1
Pattern Description
The Chubby Chernobyl comes from Idylwilde Flies out of Portland, Oregon. The Chubby is a take-off on the standard Chernobyl Ant, but with a much needed improvement; a big poly yarn wing that aids in flotation and visibility! You see, a standard Chernobyl is but thread and foam and floats well but low in the water. Not a big issue when being fished and spotted from the higher perspective of a drift boat, but toss that same fly while wade fishing and the low floating coupled with a lower sight angle and suddenly that inch and a half long fly becomes very hard to see and find! Damn near genius, someone at Idylwilde added a pair of thick, white poly yarn wings and not only made the fly WAY more visible (it looks like a marshmallow bobbing along out there) but drastically improved the floatation as well. Really a pretty simple fly to tie, the Chubby is a perfect dry dropper or HCD rig dry that will float a big tungsten nymph or two underneath it with no complaints. I'm not positive what exactly it imitates but it is certainly reminiscent of the ubiquitous Pickle, aka. Pat's Rubber Legs Nymph and perhaps the Chubby is what the Pickle hatches into upon maturity. None the less, the Chubby can cross over for a golden stone, a hopper or even that marshmallow if need be and will float all day long.
Materials Needed:

Hook: TMC 5263 #6-12>>>>> Thread: 8/0 UNI Tan>>>>> Tail: Pearl Krystal Flash>>>>> Body Dubbing: Gold Synthetic, I used Harrop Nymph Dubbing here>>>>> Body: Cinnamon Foam, 2mm>>>>> Legs: Pumpkin Sili Legs>>>>> Wing: White McFlylon>>>>>
step: 2
Start the thread behind the eye and wrap a thread base back to the bend. Return the thread to a couple eye lengths behind the hook eye. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 3
Tie in half a dozen strands of pearl Krystal Flash at their mid-point with a tight, narrow band of thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 4
Pull both ends of the Krystal Flash strands back toward the bend into one single group. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 5
Wrap back over the Krystal Flash with the thread to the bend, anchoring the strands along the top of the shank. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 6
Dub a thick but level body from the bend to the index point. End with the thread about one third of the way forward from the bend on top of the dubbing. That is, you want the dubbed body intact, but the bare thread will be hanging right at the hook point. It doesn't hurt to make a few extra turns of bare thread right here to form a base for the parts we are about to add. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 7
Cut a strip of cinnamon foam that is about as wide as the gap of the hook. Snip the corners off one end as shown here. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 8
Lay the foam on top of the dubbing and bind it down tightly with several turns of thread right above the hook point. The back end of the foam should extend a half shank or so beyond the bend. You can trim the tail to about three quarters of a shank length while you're at it. I forgot to mention that earlier so, SORRY! charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 9
Tie in a single strand of Sili Legs on the near side of the hook in that same band of thread where you tied the foam down. I try to keep the leg lined up with the foam when viewed from the side, rather than down on the dubbed body. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 10
Tie in another strand of Sili Legs along the far side as you did with the first leg. You can trim these to about a shank length long now or wait til you're done. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 11
Brush out a whole strand of white McFlylon and cut it into a three inch long section. Lay a section of it on top of the foam so the middle of the strand is even with the thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 12
Tie the McFlylon down tightly with several firm wraps of thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 13
Apply a tight, thin layer of dubbing to the thread and begin wrapping it in the joint on the body as you hold both ends of the McFlylon back toward the bend. The thicker dubbed thread will make it easier to force the front end of the wing back on top of the rear section than if you were to try to do this with bare thread. Make sure all the legs stay in position as you wrap the dubbing between their front and back sections. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 14
Pull the foam, legs and wing back and continue dubbing forward over the body to about one third of a shank behind the hook eye. Again, leave the bare thread hanging on top of the dubbed body. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 15
Upon closer inspection, the division may be more like one fourth than one third, but you get the idea. Dangit! charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 16
Lay the foam down again and bind the front end in place with several firm wraps of thread. Be sure the foam stays centered on top of the shank. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 17
Tie in another set of legs on each side of the shank at the front of the fly as you did on the back. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 18
And tie in another clump of white McFlylon just as you did on the back as well. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 19
Apply another thin strand of dubbing to the thread, wrap it in the joint to force the front of the wing back and then conitnue it under the front end of the foam to the hook eye. Whip finish just behind the eye and snip the thread. Clip the front end of the foam into a short stub and snip the corners off. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 20
Lift both wings up and trim them straight across so they are about a shank length long. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 21
Top view. Trim the legs so they are all about a shank length long or so as well. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 22
Brush the wing out a bit to spread it out and give it some surface area. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 23
Bottom view. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 24
Finished fly, quarter view. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox