charlie's flybox

Rogue Stone


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Charlie Craven and Charlie's FlyBox, Inc.
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step: 1
Pattern Description
The Rogue Stone is a product of fellow Umpqua Fly Designer, Jack Schlotter. This pattern has become the hot fly for our western salmonfly hatches on rivers like the Gunnison and Colorado. I have added this pattern because it is one that so many people ask about, and because it is a little tough to figure out empirically. The unique extended foam body provides excellent floatation and good durability. The original pattern features a sheet foam underwing that I have replaced with Web-Wing. The underwing has just never made sense to me. I mean, the elk hair imitates the fluttering wings while the foam wing imitates the...? The Web-Wing was added to keep the pattern a little closer to standard, but to be honest; I would leave it off all together on my own patterns. So, here's the tutorial for tying the famous Rogue Stone. It is actually really fun to tie after you get the hang of it and is such a great pattern that you certainly want to have a few in the box.
Materials Needed:

Hook: TMC 200 #4-8 Thread: Black or Orange 3/0 Monocord Abdomen: White Closed Cell Foam, colored with marker Underwing: Mottled gray Web-Wing Flash: Root beer Krystal Flash Overwing: Natural Cow Elk Hair or Elk Mane Bullet Head: Natural Gray Deer Hair Legs: Black Round Rubber, medium or small Special Additions: Hat Pin and Bic Pen tube
step: 2
First, cut a strip of foam that is about five or six inches long and as wide as the gap of the hook. The foam is not tapered, although it appears that way in the photos. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 3
Poke the tip of a hatpin through the foam at the center of its length. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 4
Put the tip of the hatpin in the jaws of the vise as shown. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 5
Start your thread on the hatpin in front of the foam strip. Do not make a bunch of wraps to secure the thread, just enough to anchor it. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 6
Slide the foam up to the thread base as shown here. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 7
Fold both side of the foam forward along the shank of the pin. Hold them in place as shown. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 8
Make three tight turns of thread over the foam to create the first segment. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 9
Pull the two sides back again... charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 10
...and work the thread forward an equal distance for the next segment. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 11
Make another three turns of thread to form the second segment. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 12
Repeat the above process one more time for a total of three segments. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 13
Whip finish the thread, either by hand or with an extended reach whip finisher on top of the third segment. Clip the thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 14
Grasp the foam segments tightly and withdraw the pin. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 15
You should now be holding something that looks a lot like this. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 16
Finally, start the thread on the hook and form a thread base from the seventy-five percent point back to just in front of the hook point. Try to stay up on the straight portion of the shank. If you go too far back on the bend, the extended body portion will point down, so don't do that! charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 17
Place the body blank on the shank as shown with the foam strips along the sides of the hook shank. The thread should be lined up with where the next segment will be. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 18
Make three more tight turns to create the next segment like you did when we were tying on the pin. Make sure the segments are relatively equal in length to those that have already been formed. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 19
Fold the two foam strips back again and work the thread forward slightly for the next segment. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 20
Continue the segmenting process up the hook shank forming a total of four segments on the hook shank. You should have about a fourth of a shank length left in front of the foam segments. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 21
Clip the excess foam flush against the front of the body as shown. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 22
Color the foam body with a permanent marker. I have colored the first segment black to imitate the egg sac of the natural. This egg sac is totally optional but makes for a nice effect. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 23
Cut a strip of Web-Wing that is about as wide as the gap of the hook. Round the end with your scissors to form a wing shape as shown. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 24
Place the Web-Wing on top of the foam abdomen so the end of the wing extends past the end of the foam just slightly. Tie in the wing on top of the last foam segment. Trim any excess Web-Wing off flush at the front. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 25
Top view of wing. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 26
Tie in five strands of root beer colored krystal flash at the center of their length on top of the base of the Web-Wing. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 27
Fold the forward pointing strands of krystal flash back over the top of the body and secure them in place with a few turns of thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 28
Cut, clean and stack a medium sized (pencil diameter) clump of elk hair or mane. Measure the hair against the hook so it extends to just beyond the foam body. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 29
Tie the elk hair onto the front edge of the body at the joint where the Underwing is tied in. The hair should flare quite a bit when you have it properly secured. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 30
Trim the butt ends of the hair off flush against the top of the body. Note the distance between the front edge of the body and the hook eye. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 31
Wrap a thread base from the front edge of the body to the hook eye. Be sure these wraps are tight! Leave the thread hanging at the hook eye. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 32
Cut, clean and stack a large clump of deer hair for the bullet head. Measure the hair against the shank so the tips of the deer hair extend to the midpoint on the shank. Put the hair back in the stacker and re-stack it. This time, when you remove the hair, hold the tips in your thread hand with the butts exposed. Cut the butt ends of the hair to this measured length. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 33
Place the butt ends just behind the hook eye as shown. Oh, yeah, be careful when coloring the body so you don't get ink all over your thumb! charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 34
Place three semi-tight turns of thread over the butt ends of the deer hair. Keep these wraps close to the ends of the hair. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 35
Pull down and slightly back on the thread to spin the deer hair around the hook. I hold onto the hair lightly while I apply tension to the thread and allow it to slip from my fingertips to spin. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 36
Stroke the hair forward slightly to clear the hook shank. Move the thread back to the last segment of the body/base of the wing. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 37
Detail of thread placement. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 38
Front view of the spun hair. Spread the hair in a complete 360-degree arc around the hook eye with your fingers. Try to keep the hairs radiating out from the center in straight lines, with little overlap or crossing. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 39
Push the end of a Bic pen or similar diameter plastic tube back over the deer hair to form the bullet head. It works best when the hair is somewhat compressed in the tube to help keep it tight. Push the tube back until the end of the tube is even with the thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 40
Make two loose turns of thread over the hair at the back of the tube then start to tighten the thread. Add another tight wrap over the hair to anchor it. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 41
Remove the tube from the head. The head should look something like this. Notice the hairs are straight back along the sides and top of the head. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 42
Wrap a piece of .020 lead around the tips of the deer hair collar and wing to hold them out of the way while we do the legs. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 43
Tie a three-inch length of round rubber in at the joint between the head and the collar on the near side of the hook. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 44
Tie another piece of rubber along the far side of the hook in the same joint. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 45
Trim the rubber legs so they are even with the end of the foam body in back and about half that length in the front. Whip finish the thread on top of the thread segment between the head and collar. Clip the thread. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 46
Finished fly, side view. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 47
Finished fly, bottom view. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 48
Top view. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 49
Quartering view. charlie's flybox
charlies flybox
step: 50
Front view. Did you notice that the hook eye on this particular hook is not parallel with the hook point? The fly is square with the hook bend but the eye is twisted a little...aw, Man, this fly will never work;-) charlie's flybox
charlies flybox